Slide the transmission back and out of the engine/clutch and lower it down.Support the engine with a block of wood under the oil pan, and the transmission with a floor jack or trans jack and remove the bolts.Loosen the 9 or so bolts holding the transmission bellhousing to the engine.Remove the transmission mount to body bolts.Remove the 2 bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder to the transmission housing and wire the slave out of the way.Remove the 4 bolts connecting the driveshaft to the differential and remove the driveshaft.I used 4 jackstands as high as I could get them with my floor jack. Removal of the transmission is actually pretty simple, it just takes a while. It was time to begin removing the damaged transmission from the Z. Reinstalled the front cover, and that wrapped up the preparation of the replacement trans. now some gasket scraping to doįront cover cleaned up and ready for installation of new shaft oil seal and gasket I had also previously ordered a new gasket for the front cover.įinally removed. The front cover holding the input shaft seal was stuck in place, and it took me about an hour to finally remove with a prybar so that I could replace the input shaft oil seal. I guess we'll see how long this trans lasts More shavings than I would have liked to see. It is quite a bit larger than the Nissan bearing. The seals are easy to take out with a punch or small prybar, but be careful not to damage the seating surfaces. I began by cleaning up the replacement transmission, and replacing the input and output shaft seals (which I had previously ordered).
A quick phone call home to my brother, and the transmission was on its way up to my new garage. Luckily, I had picked up a replacement FS5W71C the previous summer. I could hear pieces of the transmission grinding around inside the case as I limped it home. I could hold it in 5th, but it would immediately pop out once I let off. So, I'd had the clutch sitting around for a couple months, when one day driving home from work, I lost 5th gear on the highway. The Spec unit I chose is rated for over 400 ft-lbs, so I doubt i'll have a problem. From what I had heard the Spec clutches have easier pedal effort than the ACT clutches, but the ACT ones will hold a bit better. I had considered an ACT unit but since I live in north Jersey, I get stuck in traffic quite a bit, so pedal effort was a concern. I bought a Spec Stage 2 Kevlar Disc kit to replace it. The stock clutch was still doing alright for normal driving after 120k miles, but it would slip when beat on.
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